Made by Me: Simplicity 1652 dress

After my recent post about how everything I'd been working on seemed to be harder than it should have been, I seem to be back on track with my latest project.   Although it wasn't without it's frustrations - I had to do a LOT of fiddling and fitting with this one.

Anyway, here is my completed Simplicity 1652:







I'd already attempted this a couple of weeks ago with very unsuccessful results regarding getting a good fit on the bodice, so I started off by making a new muslin of the bodice and had to make quite a few changes.

I cut a size 12 throughout, with the exception of the back yoke, for which I used a size 8.  This was on the advice of So I Sewed This... . It was her gorgeous version of this dress that made me want to make it so badly.

Even after cutting a much smaller size on the back yoke I still had it gaping on the diagonal sides of the back opening.  In the end I solved this by making a small dart on this edge, tapering away to the centre of the pattern piece.  I probably took about 1cm out of the edge, and this appears to have worked perfectly.

I also had to take the back bodice section in quite a bit.  I'm much narrower in the back than I am at the front, so I started by taking 1.5cm of the top of the centre back seam, tapering to nothing at the waist.  This seemed sufficient on the muslin, but once I'd sewn the bodice up in my proper fabric I realised it was still too loose, so I extended the back dart from the waist up to the top edge, taking out about 1cm at the top.  Next time I would cut a smaller sized back piece, it would probably be easier!

There were 2 modifications made to the skirt, the first being that I omitted the pockets.  I had made pockets in my first version, but they were really small, and not really placed in a good position for me.  I debated redrafting the side skirt panels to create pockets in those, but didn't really have enough fabric, so I just omitted them completely.

I also pleated the front and back skirt sections onto the bodice rather than gathering them as I find this more flattering on me.  

I really love the back of this dress:


My invisible zip really is invisible in this dress!   I'm VERY pleased with myself for managing that.

For the sleeves I used the pleated cap sleeve from New Look 6000, as I loved the way these looked on my butterfly top.    The slightly stiff fabric gives them a really nice shape.



Now for a few shots of the inside.  I really feel that my finishing is improving.  On this dress I used bias tape to finish the waist seam, front and back facings, sleeve hem and skirt hem.  I ran out of black tape, but had just enough red to use on the sleeves.



 The rest of the seams are finished with a fake "overlock" stitch I found when I was playing about with my machine the other day.  Can you believe I've had this machine over 20 years and I still don't know what everything does!

Anyway, this stitch has finished the seams off pretty well.


I'm really glad I persevered with this pattern.  I did wonder if I was ever going to get the back to fit at one stage, but working at it calmly and slowly paid off. 

I think I'd make this again at some stage.  I'd love to redraft it so that it had a straight skirt, I think that would look pretty good.
 
 

32 comments

  1. Love your dress. That fabric really is lovely and looks great with the red shoes. Good on you for persevering - you have a lovely dress to show for it.

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    1. Thank you. I'm slowly realising that it is worth putting in the effort on fitting etc as you end up with a garment you're much happier with.

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  2. I love it as well!

    Love the red binding - it give a flash of unexpected colour - and matches the shoes nicely

    I agree, pleating is much more sophisticated than gathers, and suits you nicely.

    I did suspect the back opening would gape, and yes, it did - very tricky to solve, especially on yourself.

    I sometimes find that it is better to have a garment a little large and take in, than a muslin that fits perfectly and - as every fabric and every cutting is slightly different - end up with a garment too small (it's happened to me a few times !)

    Love the neat overlock stitch - it's nicer than a real serger - which often looks a bit overdone on nice fabrics.

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    1. Thank you Sarah Liz. It was a nightmare trying to fit the back by myself.

      I'm interested in your comment about the overlock stitch being nicer than a real serger. I've been debating for over a year whether to get a serger (I'd call it an overlocker!) but I think I've finally decided I don't need one. I have however got my eye on a new sewing machine!

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  3. Oh goodness, you have done a fabulous job! The extra effort is really worth it - the fit is great. I just love the finishing details you've included, especially the pops of red :)
    The neckline at the front is just lovely, it is so flattering on you.

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    1. Thank you so much. I'm really pleased with the fit. Definitely worth all the fiddling!

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  4. Your dress looks fabulous and I am so impressed with the fit that you achieved. How do you go about fitting the back by yourself? Do you take photos? What is your trick?

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    1. Thank you. I used 2 mirrors to see the back. I've tried photos before but I always seem to stand in an unnatural position for them. Using 2 mirrors works better for me.

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  5. This is a stunning dress on you! The fabric really lends itself to this pattern, and I love the unexpected opening on the back. So glad you spent time perfecting the fit - end result is well worth it. I am also a fan of the pleats and feel they are much more flattering than bulky gathers.
    Did your 'fake' overlocking stitch use 2 threads, or do you sew the straight seam first, then go back and bind the edges? Either way it turned out very neat. I am rather partial to my overlocker, but having owned one since the 80's! Keep us updated on what new sewing machines you are being tempted by...J

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    1. Thank you Judith. I sewed the straight seam first, pressed the seam allowance to one side, trimmed it down then went back over with the fake overlock stitch.

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  6. How beautiful! And the fit at the back is perfect: most impressive. Thanks for noting the sleeve of New Look 6000--I'm going to take another look at it.

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  7. Beautiful dress and nicely done! Love the fabric.

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  8. Fantastic dress. Everything I wanted to say has already been said: pleats are perfect, fitting clever, shoes ideal. Your finishing is great. I am addicted to my serger, however. But I bought mine when I was sewing baby clothes and other knit & spandex projects so my view may be biased for different types of fabric than you might use.

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    1. Thank you Marjorie. I'm used to sewing stretch fabrics without a serger as I spent many years using leotard lycra to make costumes for skating competitions.

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  9. Sam...you did a tremendous job! The dress is just lovely but what makes it even so, is the details...the bit red, how nice and clean it is inside. Very well done! :) m.

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    1. Thank you. I've really got to the stage with my sewing that I want the inside to look as good as the outside!

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  10. Sam, LOVE your dress, especially with the red shoes. Love the whole black, white and red combo! Definitely need to make this dress for myself now...sometime...and to chip with the overlocker debate, I got one earlier this year and love it! I used to avoid wearing garments made of knit fabrics, but having the overlocker means I can make stuff that I like, that fits me. Of course you can make stuff from knits on a regular machine, but having the overlocker I have also used it to gather fabric, do lovely rolled hems on my last project and I do like how the finished edges make everything you make look RTW! Saying that, the finish that you got from your machine is very nice...the version on my sewing machine is not as nice as that!

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    1. Oh, yes you should definitely make this pattern. I think the style would really suit you.

      I loved your rolled hems on your last dress, an overlocker is definitely useful for things like that.

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  11. I love everything about this dress - I'm so glad you got it to work out for you! It's really stunning!

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  12. You look super, all your hard work really paid off. It's a versatile style, now you have the fitting issues sorted do you plan to make another? :)

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    1. Thank you Jacq. Yes, I'd like another one with either a straight or tulip skirt.

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  13. it looks quite stunning! and I love the bodice back. Really cute :)

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  14. Hi Sam, just letting you know I nominated you for an award http://sallybeemakes.blogspot.co.uk/2013/06/i-back-and-i-super-sweet-apparently.html

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    1. Thank you Sally, that's really kind.

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  15. I LOVE yours! Great fabric choice! I would wear that in a heartbeat. In fact i like yours better than mine =) and the red shoes are perfect with it!

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    1. Ah, thank you. Yours is gorgeous too.

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