Excuse the stupid claw-like hand - no idea what that's about! |
The project started with the fabric, some gorgeous wool blend coating fabric from Fabric HQ. They also have the same fabric in a navy check. You might know that I teach a few different sewing classes at Fabric HQ so I'm often there, admiring their new arrivals. This one arrived the other week and Rae asked me if I'd like to make something from it for them to display in the shop. Of course I said yes, and then set about hunting for a suitable pattern.
I wanted something quite simple so that I didn't have to do too much pattern matching. None of the coat or jacket patterns in my stash were quite right, and then I came across this vintage cape pattern.
I bought it a couple of summers ago at - would you believe - a funny little shop at the Bletchley Park code breakers museum. They had a small selection of vintage patterns in amongst other antique "junk" and I think it cost me £1.00.
I wasn't keen on the collar though, so I decided to mash it up with the collar from the Burdastyle Kim coat.
Source |
This meant extending the fronts a little, which I did by tracing the front sections for the cape then laying them over the front sections for the coat and tracing the neckline curve and additional section I needed. This kept the shoulder seam correct for the cape and gave me a neckline that matched the collar. I'm really glad I did this, because the collar feels very cosy and luxurious.
I think I spent a whole evening matching the checks and cutting this out, but once I'd done the cutting out things went together pretty quickly. The cape has princess seams on the front and back, and a long seam over each shoulder and down the side. The front princess seams are supposed to contain the arm slits, but I moved mine to the side seams. I tried them in the front seams on my muslin but could barely move my arms. I knew if the cape was going to be worn at all they'd have to be moved.
I did four bound buttonholes, centring them in the middle of one of the squares created by the checks. This was a great help in getting them level and the fabric behaved itself beautifully. I think I must have used a different tutorial to the last time I did bound buttonholes because I found them much easier than previously.
The time I spent matching the checks at the cutting out stage paid off, because look at the pattern matching on the back of the collar! I'm definitely proud of that. This was the first time I'd really done any major pattern matching and while it takes time, it's definitely worth putting the effort in at the preparation stage.
I lined the cape with some paisley jacquard lining from a local fabric shop, and flat piped the seam between the facings and the lining with some bias binding. This could have been slightly neater - it's not all exactly the same width - but I'm pleased with the effect nonetheless.
I bagged the lining, using the armhole slit on one side to turn the cape the right way out once the two pieces had been joined together. I then hand sewed the lining to the fashion fabric around the arm slits.
I think the only thing I'd change about this is that I wish I'd added pockets into the front princess seams, but I'm not going to start taking it apart and adding them.
Thank you very much to Rae and Jacqui at Fabric HQ for providing the fabric for this project. It's currently on display in their shop, but I can't wait for the opportunity to wear it. The fabric was wonderful to work with and is cosy but not heavy.
Beautiful job Sam! Looks very expensive with all the extra details you've added. Love the checks.
ReplyDeleteThanks Manju. It feels quite expensive and luxurious.
DeleteWow, that's amazing, Sam. I can't wait to see it at the next Sewcial.
ReplyDeleteThanks Fran. Look forward to seeing you.
Deleteooh it's lovely! great pattern matching and fab buttonholes!
ReplyDeleteAh, thank you so much. I can't wait til I can wear it.
DeleteExcellent job with the pattern matching. It looks fab x
ReplyDeleteThanks Jacq. The pattern matching took a bit of time!
DeleteThis is definitely awesome! I love it! You were so lucky to find that pattern....it's perfect and you did a great job on the collar! LOVE IT!!!!
ReplyDeleteThank you Margo!
DeleteThis is gorgeous! I love the bound buttonholes and the bias piping (what a great idea), and wowsers to the check matching!! Definitely worth the time and effort.
ReplyDeleteThank you Lynne, I love being able to add little details like the bound buttonholes and bias piping to my handmade garments.
DeleteIt is fabulous! I'm about to make a cape. I have been jealous of the one I made for jane :). the pattern I'm using is really similar- arm slits in front princess seams. I read a review that mentioned the same thing- moving the slits to the side seams. Love the plaid fabric you used! And you did an excellent job of matching.
ReplyDeleteThanks Liza Jane, can't wait to see your cape. The arm slits in the front princess seams felt so strange on the muslin, I'm so pleased I moved them to the side seams.
DeleteFinally got the fabric on the website - here's a link to it http://www.fabrichq.co.uk/collections/fabric/products/italian-wool-check-in-wine
ReplyDeleteThere's also a blue check if you look under all fabrics or search wool you'll find it. Thank you so much for letting us display this in the shop, Sam. You've done such an amazing job!
Thank you! And thank you for the fabric. I'll add a link to it in the main post now.
DeleteHi Sam, I popped over to your blog via Fabric HQ and I'm really glad I have as it gave me the opportunity to have a closer look at this beauty. I think you've done a fantastic job, so even though it was time consuming matching the plaids this cape look amazing.
ReplyDeleteThanks Kelly. If you're local to Fabric HQ it's on display in the shop at the moment - you could have an even closer look!
DeleteYou did such a fantastic job on this! Love it!
ReplyDeleteThanks Gail, I'm really pleased with how it turned out.
DeleteAwesomeness is the right word! Your cape is gorgeous. I've seen it at Fabric HQ and it is even more lovely in real life.
ReplyDeleteThank you Jen.
DeleteIt's lovely and looks very wearable and it'll great to wear with all those lovely details which make it extra special. Kay
ReplyDeleteThanks Kay.
DeleteIt's great - and it'll be very wearable. All your care and matching those plaids make it extra special.
ReplyDeleteLovely fabric (I especially fancy the navy version) and beautifully made. Well done. Super work!
ReplyDeleteThank you. The navy fabric is really lovely.
DeleteWowee! That is one beautiful cape which echoes all the patience and skill invested. Amazing work :-)
ReplyDeleteThank you Janene, sometimes I love a project you can really get stuck into and use a few different skills.
Deleteoh wow, that cape is a stunner!! Love your plaid, and the lining and contrasting trim is beyond professional- I'm dazzled by your skills!
ReplyDeleteThank you Julie, that's really kind of you.
DeleteAmazing post! You have a wonderful blog:)
ReplyDeleteWhat about following each other on Instagram, Bloglovin, Twitter?..
www.bloglovin.com/blog/3880191
Thanks Irene, I'm glad you like my blog. I'm off to check out yours now.
DeleteWhat a gorgeous winter cape! Your collar is infinitely ore appealing and suits the over style of the garment. And you pattern matching on the back collar is worthy of staring at. I hope you are enjoying wearing it!
ReplyDeleteThank you, yes I'm really enjoying wearing it!
Delete